A planned tour in Harlem was on the cards today. We left early to make the 80 block subway journey with a little trepidation. Our last visit to Harlem, 2016, was horrendous. The tour guide was crap. Not only were they ill informed, the tour was randomly run and quickly drove past interesting sights at night which we couldn’t see let alone explore. 

We we wanted to learn more about this part of Manhattan as we haven’t visited often and the two times we have were both a little bit ordinary. 

Today would be different. 

This time we opted for a local company and were pleasantly surprised when we met Shirley. A native of the area with a rich and deep understanding of the community, its history and the trials and tribulations of residents over the years. Shirley walked with us exploring the well known sights, the Apollo theatre, the story of Malcolm X and Adam Clayton Powell Jnr. She also walked the back streets with us showing us much loved murals, the story of the Collyer’s. Seriously read the story in the photo. It’s amazingly funny. Shirley talked about locals, took us into buildings and held us spellbound as she told us stories spanning her 70 years. This is where the Clintons worked, Neil Patrick Harris lives there, Malcolm X laid in state there. She pointed out the stunning brownstone residences. Their tiny street frontage secretly hiding the myriad rooms and floors inside. Each one a work of art in itself. 

All in all a great tour. 

We then sat with her at lunch and chatted some more. Lunch was fine, a self service soul food establishment called Manna’s. Shirley was fascinated with Australia, and the outback. Never visiting but learning a lot through the magic of TV. We left Shirley and ventured around Harlem for the rest of the day. 

We visited Morningside Park. Beautiful, but we did underestimate the amount of steps. See the photos and you’ll get the idea. We spotted squirrels and geese. Mardi was stalked by a few geese and we saw Boy and a Bear. Lol. 

After the park and a few hundred stairs we walked the grounds of Columbia University. We found a hidden owl in the Alma Mater statue and marvelled at the library and overall size of the campus. 

We then walked to Riverside Park, taking in the magnificent Riverside Church, built by the Rockefellers. We then walked to General Grants tomb. We sat in the forecourt of the memorial as the sun set on a perfect autumn day resting our feet and planning the best way home. 

We found the 1 train at 125th street and made our way back to midtown. A quick stop for hot chocolates and we were home. Exhausted. Shake Shack for dinner tonight.


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