Our three-day stay at the Marriott Mena House in Giza, overlooking the pyramids, has come to an end. But before we packed up and moved on, it’s worth reflecting on last night, because it was very Cairo.
After returning from Alexandria, we had a short break before heading out for dinner. Mardi was understandably tired after the long day, and Kerrie, who hadn’t joined us in Alexandria, was keen to get out for a couple of hours. So David, Kerrie and I summoned our courage, booked an Uber, and ventured into the main streets of Giza.
If the freeway at 160 km/h during the day felt chaotic, the streets of Giza at night somehow managed to match it, just at lower speeds. Six or seven lanes of traffic squeezed into three lanes of road. Horns constantly blaring. Our Uber driver circled endlessly, unable to locate the restaurant, and suggested several alternatives. We were polite but firm. Mo had recommended this place, and we were determined to find it.
Eventually, after multiple laps, U-turns, and one memorable moment reversing down a busy road in the wrong direction, we arrived.
Upstairs was a busy café-style restaurant. Loud. Smoky. Four or five TVs playing different soccer matches, Arabic commentary echoing across the room. Groups clustered around screens, cheering near-misses and near-goals. Then, almost as suddenly as it began, the match ended and the place emptied. Entire tables vanished within minutes. We were left with post-game analysis and dinner: lamb kofta, barbecue kofta, flatbread. Mediocre at best, but the experience was worth it.
Standing on the street waiting for our Uber, watching the traffic flow like organised chaos, David delivered what may be the quote of the trip so far. A motorbike passed us and he said, completely deadpan, “Oh my god, they’ve got a mask on but no helmet.” More concerned about their lungs than their brain. We laughed uncontrollably as our Uber arrived and whisked us safely back to the hotel.
After a good night’s sleep, we were up early again. One of the benefits of flying west at the start of a trip is that jet lag actually works in your favour. Early nights. Early mornings. Full days. Today was no exception. Up around 5am, plenty of time to pack, catch up on some reading, do some blogging, and edit photos before leaving at 8.30am.
Our first stop was the Egyptian Museum, the original one, and it was utterly fascinating. Amira guided us through thousands of years of Egyptian history, helping make sense of a civilisation that lasted far longer than most empires combined.
Ancient Egyptian history is traditionally divided into periods rather than a single continuous story. The Early Dynastic Period saw the unification of Upper and Lower Egypt around 3100 BC. This was followed by the Old Kingdom, the age of the pyramids, when pharaohs like Khufu (Cheops), Khafre, and Menkaure ruled. After periods of instability, Egypt entered the Middle Kingdom, marked by strong administration and cultural revival. The New Kingdom followed, Egypt’s imperial age, with famous rulers such as Hatshepsut, Akhenaten, Tutankhamun, and Ramesses II. Over time, Egypt fell under Persian, Greek, and Roman control before transitioning into Christian rule and, later, Islamic rule from around the 7th century AD.
One of the most striking moments was seeing the tiny ivory statue of Khufu (Cheops), the pharaoh credited with building the Great Pyramid of Giza. The statue is no more than a few centimetres tall and is the only confirmed physical representation of him. Standing there, it’s hard to reconcile that this fragile, almost insignificant figure is linked to the largest stone structure ever built by humans. The contrast is perplexing. A man remembered not by portraits or monuments bearing his likeness, but by a pyramid so vast it still dominates the horizon 4,500 years later.
The final exhibit we saw was equally compelling: the tomb of Yuya and Thuya, the parents of Queen Tiye and grandparents of Akhenaten. What makes this tomb remarkable is how complete it is. We saw the entire burial process laid out almost step by step. The massive outer coffins, followed by the nested inner coffins. The funerary equipment, including beds, chairs, chariots, and storage chests. The canopic jars that once held the internal organs, each protected by a different deity. Boxes of food and supplies prepared for the afterlife. And finally, the innermost coffins containing the mummified bodies themselves. Seeing the full sequence brought ancient Egyptian beliefs about death and the afterlife into sharp focus. This wasn’t symbolism. This was a carefully planned journey into eternity.
After the museum, Amira took us to a series of shops selling jewellery, clothing, papyrus, and spices. The staff were friendly and knowledgeable, and we did pick up a few small items. That said, it felt very curated for visitors. Our preference would have been a more raw experience, a bazaar or local market, but it was still interesting to see traditional crafts up close.
A quick return to the hotel to check out, and then we were off to connect with our Viking cruise group. Our next base is the Fairmont Nile City Hotel. We were greeted immediately by Viking staff, given an overview of the next few days, and assigned to Group A. There are around 80 guests in total, split into three groups of about 25. Our first formal briefing is tomorrow at 9am.
Mardi and I are on the 19th floor, David and Kerrie on the 12th. Both rooms have stunning views over the Nile, looking west, with the pyramids faintly visible in the distance. Ancient and modern Egypt in the same frame.
By the time we met for lunch it was nearly 3pm and none of us had eaten all day. We found a small French-style restaurant in the hotel complex and shared soup, salad, and a chicken burger between David and me. The food was excellent, the staff lovely. The downside, again, was smoking. A man stood less than a metre away at the bar, cigarette in hand. As Australians, unaccustomed to this since the 1980s, it’s unpleasant, but it’s part of the local culture and not something you can change.
After a short rest, we regrouped for dinner at Saigon, an Asian-inspired restaurant within the Fairmont complex. Scallops, chicken, edamame, mushroom dumplings. A perfect way to unwind. Over dinner we recapped the last few days and looked ahead with anticipation to what Viking has planned before we board our Nile River cruise aboard Aton.
Another full day. Another layer of Egypt revealed. And tomorrow, the next chapter begins.
